FASHION (LUXURY BRANDING – CHANEL)

FASHION (LUXURY BRANDING – CHANEL)

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Fashion (Luxury Branding – Chanel)

Introduction

Background

Fashion icon Gabriel Chanel was born in Saumur in 1883 and went through the hardships of life after she was left alone after her mother’s death. The fact that her mother used to menial jobs implies that Chanel was left in abject poverty at the age of just six years after she died. Chanel tried to get by in life after this tragedy and chose to work as a singer at a pub where she earned her name Coco. These jobs provided her with the much-needed food items and shelter. Additionally, the jobs served to strengthen her resolve to become a better person in the future. Indeed, her hustles made her stand out from other girls of her age since she had more experience in the real world. She possessed sharp features that allowed her to gain admirers, who helped her enhance her fame and character. One of these admirers was Etienne Balsan, who became her greatest admirer. At the time when Coco was aged twenty-five years her heart was directed at getting out of her dire situation. She resolved to make something wonderful out of her life. This decision led her to live with Etienne, who despite their age difference and Etienne’s character, he respected her. This is the point that changed her life as she decided to become a fashion designer. Etienne became her huge admirer and mentor as he decided to offer her a room in his bachelor to serve as her studio. The people around her became her major support as her friends were the first ones to don her first patch of hats. Although Coco received criticisms of various forms directed at her designs, her clothing line was revolutionising the fashion world. According to many critics, her designs lacked sophistication revered by many at the time. However, she could not be discouraged by these useless jibes as she replaced the conventional designs with her elegant designs. For instance, she replaced women’s tight corsets with informal stylishness and comfy fashion pieces. Her simple yet stylish designs attracted many people all over the world making her one of the most famous fashion designers. 1920 became the year of great revelation to her and the fashion lovers as she established a perfume that would later conquer many markets all over the world. It was during this moment that Coco made her famous Chanel suit and her legendary little black dress (Said et al., 2013).

Aims and Objectives

The main intention of the paper is to provide a report of the research conducted on Chanel clothing line. It incorporates various impacts that Chanel brought to the fashion industry including the alteration of the myth about the black colour. Indeed, Chanel had a great impact on fashion considering the changes that occurred since her entry into the industry. The industry turned from complex designs to simple designs that represented the needs and perceptions of the people. In this respect, this essay aims at studying the state of the industry before Chanel and after her tremendous effort in the industry. This paper will attain this aim by reviewing primary and secondary data on the fashion industry. The objectives can be outlined as

To identify how Chanel changed the perspective of fashion

To study how Chanel changed the myth of the black colour in regard to fashion

To identify how she revolutionised the fashion back in 1900s

Research Scope and Limitations of the Study

This paper is dedicated to studying Chanel and her methods of fashion design. Therefore, the paper will have several sections seeking to achieve the objectives of the study. Chanel started from humble backgrounds and worked hard to an extent of being recognised and imitated by various designers worldwide. This implies that her strategies, as well as her motivations, are worth being studied because many designers in the current world still use these strategies to achieve success. Survey through questionnaires, as well as the review of the available literature on the topic, will allow this study to achieve its objectives. Movies and newspaper articles about fashion will also help in this endeavour.

There are some limitations that tend to affect this research with one of them being the availability of primary data. The reality that it has been an extended span of time since the icon was in the industry means that first-hand data from her was not available. Therefore, the study relied upon other fashion designers to get the information of how Chanel influenced their careers and the industry. Nevertheless, the study could not get direct information about Chanel because of the lack of the people who knew her or her lineage.

Another limitation of the study is the validity of the information in the secondary sources. This is because of the occurrence of wrong data in some of these books. However, an accurate review of the suitability of these resources was done before they were used on the paper.

Methodology

Research Approach

The study utilized questionnaires as its primary research method gathering responses from interviews conducted by fashion designers and critics. Although the data about Chanel was limited, the people in the fashion industry were able to provide leads to how she might have influenced the industry. The study also utilized secondary research as most of the things found on Chanel are stored in books, journals, newspapers and videos. This is perhaps the main basis of the paper since these resources were easily found in various internet databases and some libraries.

Primary Research methods

These were done through an interview with the people in the fashion industry and librarians in charge of fashion literatures. Although the data was not conclusive, the responses provided a direction for the study since these people knew a thing or two about Chanel fashion strategies.

Secondary Research Methods

There were several secondary sources used for this research. These include books, journals, videos, and newspapers. All these resources were sifted through for relevance before the most relevant set were chosen for use in the study. Bias was reduced by choosing a wide variety of books from different authors from different eras. This allowed for comparison of the content hence allowing for a wise choice. The choice was made with the research objectives in mind since they helped in reaching the desired outcome.

Data Analysis

Analysis of the outcomes from was done through comparison of the responses of the interviewees. This part of the research carried thirty percent of the overall outcome because the respondents were few. The next part involved a comparison of the data from the chosen literature on the impact of Chanel on the industry. A decision was then made with the side having a larger percentage of positive reviews carrying the day.

Literature Review

There is a saying that arose that intimated that Chanel had five lives because of the perseverance and the challenges she had to go through. It also occurred as a coincidence as the number became her lucky number. The first article of clothing made by Chanel was the hats made in a tiny studio lent to her by Etienne. The outlook of her hats elicited some discussions as many people began making fun of them. The hats were viewed as weird-looking as they were too big and made of black colour with pearls and feathers on the side. However, the young people were thrilled with her fashion sense and without knowing it Chanel began changing the fashion world. Her work enabled her to open her first fashion shop in 1910 in Rue Cambon in Paris. Her efforts and hard work made allowed her fame to grow substantially within a short period. This allowed her to take more shops in the same street because her business was growing day by day. After the war, Haute Couture became a huge industry luring rich bourgeois clients. It was before the First World War that she decided to establish her first boutique with huge writings “Gabriel Chanel” put on the awning. This became a huge investment as her business continued its rise as the admirers of her fashion designs grew in numbers and stature. Chanel was fast becoming a huge fashion designer worldwide. Chanel’s past troubles and poverty was quickly forgotten as she appeared like a person who was at the top for all time.

Wonderland Magazine (2013) reports that Chanel was a huge influence in the fashion industry as she began her work with major changes in the industry. For instance, Chanel replaced corsets and tight skirts with comfortable clothing such as loose and overflowing dresses. Additionally, she began the use of black clothes and white pearls in her fashion designs. This aspect of fashion had not been encountered before as the people stuck with bright colours for their designs. However, this was not Chanel’s mindset as she came in with a motivation to become unique in the business. Wonderland Magazine (2013), states that her challenging childhood was perhaps the reason she worked very hard and wanted to be the icon of the industry. For a long time, black colour was the colour worn to funerals and was thus considered a dark colour associated with sadness. However, Chanel sought to change this perception in the public. She achieved her wish as the Vogue magazine published an article about her clothing designs entitled “frock that the entire world would wear” in 1926. This miniature event became the hallmark in Chanel’s career as a fashion model as a wardrobe staple was born.

Sischy (1998) declares that Chanel was never a feminist although she talked about femininity in most of her discourses. Even so, all her clothes did not have an aura of femininity according to Sischy (1998). Sischy (1998) suggests that her talent of making clothes was enhanced by her poor background. Indeed, having hailed from a poor family, Chanel had to make and mend her clothes because of the lack of finance for clothing. Her lack of femininity arose from her the fact that she made her clothes using normal male attires such as ties and sports jackets. This was perhaps, her first step in being the renowned fashion designer that she became later on in her life. Sischy states that her fashion desire was huge so that instead of talking about genders, she spoke the language of fashion.

Eurbanista (2009) declares that Chanel had a belief that women could integrate elegance and activity in their lives. Up until this time, women were made to wear tight, uncomfortable clothes in their bid to look elegant. These clothes did not allow the women to work properly and most of the time they became dormant. However, Chanel decided to change this notion to which she began being successful since it was at this time that a change of social beliefs about working women was surfacing. Chanel began a revolution in the fashion world when she began using designing shorts using jerseys in women’s clothing. This was a revolution since jerseys were used in men’s clothing in this era (Eurbanista 2009).

Eurbanista (2009) states that Chanel was at the epitome of fashion glory in her thirties. It was at this time that she decided to utilise the services of Paul Iribe who was a renowned designer and illustrator of jewellery, furniture and interior decorations. Paul and Chanel became romantically involved during this time. However, the element of their relationship, which was vital to the fashion industry, was their collaboration in making designs. Indeed, they made a jewellery design that integrated diamond and soft platinum. She launched these designs in 1932. The effect of these designs was so huge such that Chanel’s jewellery department have recreated comets and carbuncles in the form of Chanel’s diamond and soft platinum model.

According to Eurbanista (2009), the fact that Chanel designs are still being incorporated into modern designs, although with little modification, shows the influence that she has had on the industry. Moreover, her collaborations with huge designers of her time show the respect she gained from fellow artists.

Said et al. (2013) states that Chanel launched her perfume line after he Chanel clothing line’s success of decades in 1954. However, the establishment of the perfume would imply two different things for Chanel because of the risks associated with starting a new business. First, the failure of the perfume in the market would be detrimental to her clothing business as the capital, and the support came from the clothing business. Secondly, the success of the business would boost her clothing business and her career. The success of Chanel clothing line meant that Chanel had the desire for her perfume to succeed. Chanel’s crunchy petticoats, draped fabrics, wasp waists, and designs with edge touching the ankles had brought success to her legacy. However, the perfume did not succeed the way her clothing line had done.

Said et al. (2013) suggest that Chanel clothing line inspired many even those who chose to design clothing contrasting the designs championed by Chanel. For instance, Dior chose to use a design that would prove to be the complete opposite of Chanel designs in 1947. As much as the designs were different from Chanel, Dior was influenced by Chanel’s character and her determination to change the history in fashion. According to Charles-Roux (2005), Chanel designs had dominated for a long time in fashion. Dior’s deed of going against the tide was synonymous with Chanel’s deed of going against the norms when she established her clothing line.

Chanel’s legacy was portrayed by her clothing business even after her death in 1971 according to Haye & Tobin (1994). However, the introduction of the perfume had brought several challenges to the clothing business. Even so, Chanel managed to come back with a new design, which was criticised in Europe and lauded in America. This design consisted of a buttoned tweed jacket that had a loose armhole that provided comfort for the wearer. This particular design was not welcomed in Europe. Nonetheless, the Vogue magazine was again at it again helping Chanel to come back to business. They posted a collection of her clothes in a three-page editorial consisting of Chanel posing against a wall wearing her navy jersey suit with a gardenia on the lapel.

After the aftermath of the setback, Chanel made her first women handbag. The article was quilted and made of leather, and it made the headlines in various fashion fronts. This article was made in 1955 and went on to stand out and become a classic accessory in its era. Chanel tried to capture the imagination and the needs of many consumers by using different colours on these handbags. The handbags had an aura of the designs used in her suits as the leather strapping was braided with gilt synonymous with the lining in the suits (Haye & Tobin 1994).

Chanel’s comeback was on track, and several celebrities became her clients. Her line became the face of the celebrity world as she began making clothes that suited every lifestyle. The death of Dior’s director in 1957 worked in her favour as the company had become her main rival. The Neiman-Marcus Award indicated her success in fashion during this time she was presented with in 1957. This became the epitome of her success in the industry.

From her article, Driscoll (2010) describes the importance of fashion on modernism and style. She claims that although the fashion industry has changed over time, there elements of former fashion designs in the modern designs. Moreover, she states that the fashion industry would be nowhere if it were not for the direction provided by the veterans. She notes that famous fashion houses such as Dior and House of Chanel have their roots in the capabilities of post designers such as Chanel. Driscoll (2010) notes three things from that Chanel contributed to fashion. These things include simplicity, perceptions of the black colour and comfort.

During the years prior to Chanel’s entry into the fashion world, black was considered a dark colour that could only be worn to funerals. Wearing black on any other occasion was considered an act of pervasiveness and always such events were considered cursed. Studies show that people desired bright colours because they were associated with good moods and happiness. According to Driscoll (2010), this can be understood because the world was underdeveloped and the elements that make people happy today were, did not exist at the time. However, the entry of Chanel into the industry changed every aspect of the fashion business. In her article, Sischy (1998) writes that Chanel was not only ahead of her peers in fashion, but also ahead of herself and the world she was living in at the time. She states that the works of Chanel are echoed by the works done by modern fashion icons such as Helmut Lang among others. Even so, the most prominent factor that Driscoll (2010) accounts for is her brave deed of using black colour in fashion in a world that black was a disgusting and sad colour. Chanel did not consider her poor background when she decided to use the colour because in the case the designs were rejected by the consumers, then she would have lost the business. She decided to take the risk although through small modifications to the black colour. According to Driscoll (2010), the inclusion of white pearls reduced the effect of the black colour on her buyers. Moreover, her character of doing the unexpected thrilled the youth who took to her style.

The impact of her colour choice on the myths of black colour was huge as people began to embrace the black. This can be seen in the contemporary world where black colour is revered as an official colour in many companies and countries. Driscoll (2010) states that a visit to any office indicates that more than seventy percent of the people in the office either have black suits or have at least one black clothing article. Moreover, a mixture of black and white colours can be witnessed in almost all fashion events all over the world. Sischy (1998) concurs by saying that this is evidence that shows how Chanel influenced the change of perceptions about the black colour in the fashion industry up to date.

In another aspect, Driscoll (1998) stated that Chanel changed that the perspective that elegance has to be synonymous with complexity. She drew simple designs and used simple materials to make impeccable clothes loved by many. Although it took long for her simple designs to be embraced by those high in the society, the designs gained substantive interests in the end. There is evidence of simple dressing in the dressing codes of many celebrities in the contemporary world. According to Driscoll (2010), this aspect was predicted by the simple designs made by Chanel decades ago.

The most famous influence that Chanel had on the fashion industry is her emphasis on comfort. Sischy (1998) asserts that although Chanel was not feminine, her fashion sense helped in the liberation of women. Women’s dressing consisted of tight clothes that forbid women from moving freely. Therefore, women could not combine elegance and working. Chanel changed this situation by making a clothing line that combined elegance and comfort. This has allowed women to get involved in employment while dressing elegantly.

Conclusion

The state of the fashion industry in the period prior to Chanel’s entry into the field was conventional and rigid. Designers made designs according to the conventions common during the time. Chanel came into the industry with a different mindset that changed the perceptions of the people and the industry. Her ideas are still in use even in the contemporary world as evidenced by several current and upcoming designs. Chanel changed the conventional perceptions about fashion and more importantly through her impeccable work. Her efforts to free women through fashion are still lauded in several stages in the modern world.